Due to the varied nature of the business from which our logs are sourced you could find any of the logs below in your loads, have fun identifying the logs and their quality's, or ask your delivery driver what logs you have in your load. Our Wood is all sourced locally from Prince tree surgery
Please Note that all woods burn better when seasoned and some burn better when split rather than as whole logs. Below is a list of the most common woods and there burning quality's. Remember Brentwood logs dont sell, Willow, Poplar or Conifer logs.
- Apple and Pear
- burning slowly and steadily with little flame but good heat.
- the best burning wood providing plenty of heat (will also burn green)
- Beech and Hornbeam
- burning extremely good when eood is well seasoned
- Blackthorn and Hawthorn
- Very good – burn slowly but with good heat
- This burns slowly with good heat and a pleasant scent.
- Burns well but fast when seasoned, and may spit
- Good, and hazel has so many other uses!
- Extremely good wood when well seasoned
- Horse Chestnut
- Good flame and heating power but spits a lot.
- Fairly good for heat but crackles and spits
- Good, reliable and quite slow burning wood!
- Dry seasoned oak is excellent, burns slowly with a good heat
- burns well with a bright flame but crackles and spits
- avoid all poplar wood, burns very slowly with little heat
- very good, interest in biomass production of coppiced willow as a fuel
Seasoning wood is making wood fit for burning – by reducing its water content – usually by leaving it for a period of time in the right conditions. All wood contains water. Freshly-cut wood can be up to 45% water, while well-seasoned firewood generally has a 20–25% moisture content. Well seasoned firewood is easier to light, produces more heat, and burns cleaner. We achieve this by storing our cut & split logs for one year, off the ground on pallets and under a roof with open sides.
Burning Unseasoned Wood
If you try to burn green wood, the heat produced by combustion must dry the wood before it will burn, using up a large percentage of the available energy in the process. This results in less heat delivered to your home, and gallons of acidic water in the form of creosote deposited in your chimney. This can eat through the chimney lining and cause significant damage. The problem is that as wet wood burns slowly, with little heat, the chimney flue does not get a chance to warm up. There is little draw (air moving up the chimney) which dosnt’t help the combustion, and the flue remains a cold surface on which the creosote condenses. Dry wood will burn hot – heating up the flue, creating a fast draw, and shooting the smaller amount of vapours out of the chimney before they get a chance to condense.
The first step to drive the water out of the wood is to cut it into lengths – let’s say about 12–18 inches long (or less if your fireplace/woodburning stove requires this). Tree branches and trunks contain thousands of microscopic tubes which carry water from the roots to the leaves, and these tubes can stay full of water for years after the tree has been felled (or pruned). Cutting the wood to shorter lengths opens these tubes to the atmosphere which increases evaporation. The second step is splitting any logs that are more than say six inches in diameter. This increases the surface area of the wood exposed to the elements and therefore also enhances drying. So the cutting and splitting of logs should be done as soon as possible after the wood is harvested – not just before you want to burn it.